Since the facial care routines boom started, it seems like there’s a new product every day. But what do they contain? The cosmetic products we use daily are made of all sorts of ingredients with countless benefits for skin health.
There’s a wide variety of skincare ingredients, which often leads to confusion about what we’re applying to our skin and why. With so much information available, it can be more perplexing than clarifying. That’s why it’s important to start with the basics: active ingredients.
What are active ingredients?
Active ingredients are components that have a specific action on the skin, responsible for ensuring that the cosmetic fulfills its intended function, such as moisturizing, emollient, exfoliating, depigmenting, toning, conditioning, or antioxidant effects. Additionally, they often renew connective tissues, enhance hydration, and combat aging processes.
There are different types of ingredients like vegetable oils, organic acids, plant extracts, and vitamins, among others. But today, we’ll focus on one in particular: azelaic acid.
Azelaic acid is a type of dicarboxylic acid obtained from cereals like wheat, barley, or rye. It’s what we call a natural acid. When applied to the skin, it offers numerous benefits due to its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and depigmenting properties. For example, it’s used to treat certain types of acne, improve blemishes, reduce redness in sensitive skin, and refine skin texture. And the best part? It’s suitable for all skin types.
Skin Benefits
Acne
In general terms, azelaic acid is primarily indicated for relieving mild to moderate acne. It’s also ideal for topical treatment of rosacea and melasma depigmentation. Consequently, it also has a skin-brightening effect, contributing to rejuvenation. It’s applied in the form of a cream, washing and drying the affected areas.
Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and bactericidal action, it targets the acne-causing bacteria by altering its pH. Additionally, it has sebum-regulating properties, helping to reduce excess oil, a factor in acne. Moreover, it also has keratolytic properties, meaning it helps reduce skin thickening, promoting pore unclogging.
Smoother Skin
Moreover, it acts as a “signal inhibitor,” halting the progression of emerging skin issues in the upper layers. This means it “instructs” the cells in these layers on their behavior, resulting in smoother and visibly healthier skin, regardless of age, skin type, or skin issues.
Rosacea
Its anti-inflammatory properties and good tolerance in sensitive skin make it an effective ingredient for treating rosacea-related imperfections. Azelaic acid reduces the swelling and redness caused by this condition, as well as other lesions like pimples.
Hyperpigmentation
Azelaic acid is also notable for its antioxidant and depigmenting properties, inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase responsible for melanin production, which when activated, causes skin discolorations like melasma.
How to Use Azelaic Acid
There are various ways to incorporate it into our routine. Ideally, like any dermo-cosmetic product, it should be applied twice a day, morning and evening. However, consistency is key, as improvements typically become noticeable after four weeks of treatment. As a medication or active ingredient, azelaic acid is marketed in the form of gel, foam, or cream.
Recommended Steps for Use
Thoroughly cleanse the affected area, preferably with a dermo cleansing lotion or facial soap. Pat dry with a soft towel by gently dabbing.
If it’s a foam, shake the product well before use to integrate all its components.
Apply a thin layer to the affected area and then apply an additional layer over the entire face, using gentle massaging motions.
Avoid covering the treatment area with any bandage.
If applying makeup, do so only after the skin has absorbed all the product.
Thoroughly wash hands with soap and water and avoid contact with the eyes and mouth, as it may be irritating to mucous membranes.
Which Skin Types Benefit from Azelaic Acid?
One of azelaic acid’s great advantages is its excellent tolerance. Although it also acts as an exfoliant, it’s very gentle, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive ones.
Another advantage is that it can be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women without risks. However, for hypersensitive skin, it’s advisable to start using it every other day and see how the skin reacts.
In cosmetics, it can only be used in concentrations of up to 10% maximum. Concentrations between 10-20% are considered medication and therefore require a prescription.
The reality is this: buying cosmetics is becoming increasingly challenging due to the plethora of active ingredients, and we often don’t know which one is right for our skin. If you have any of these conditions, now you know that azelaic acid is one of the most recommended ingredients for treatment. Remember that results may vary depending on the skin’s condition, so it’s always essential to consult with a specialist beforehand, especially when considering melasma treatment Singapore.
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